Sizing Guide

SIZING GUIDE

*Refer to above sizing chart

Above is our current size chart for all styles. Please note this includes AU/UK sizing, US and EU sizing. Please be careful to check you are looking at the right size when advising brides and before sending through the order.

IMPORTANT: Some styles may have specific fit notes that are important to consider when selecting the right size. Please carefully read the notes on each style, which will explain how the fit differs from our size chart. Please take this into account when ordering, and feel free to contact your Wholesale Accounts Manager if you are at all unsure on sizing.

We always recommend looking at both the measurements in the size chart but also how the sample fits the bride in store. Sometimes a brides widest hip measurement is lower than our low hip, which is only 20cm down from the waist. If something doesn’t make sense, please send us a full length photo of the bride in the sample front, side and back (so we can see how much she is clipped in) is the most helpful.

For our Demi-Couture Prea James Studio collection, split sizing is included in the price, there is no extra charge as we would like to get the nearest fit possible. See below for more details.

EXTENDED SIZE GUIDE 

*Refer to above extended sizing chart

Our extended size guide is offered on select styles only. Please check each style for the exact size range available. 

If you have a bride who is measuring in this extended size guide, please check with us prior to confirming as not all gowns are offered in extended sizing. Approval will be dependent on the style and may result in an additional pattern grading fee. We currently offer the Amelie gown, Anouk, Cara, Cecile Blouse, Chloe Wrap Top, Eden Skirt, Elise Blouse, Francesca Skirt, Gianna Dress, Jolie Gown, Joni Skirt,  Lana Blouse, Liv Blazer, Mariska, Maya Skirt, Mika Top, Nina Gown, Rebecca Dress, Sadie Skirt, Viola Gown, Winona Mini and Zoe Jacket in varying sizes up to a 24. 

TAKING MEASUREMENTS 

*Refer to above measurement guide

Overbust – This measurement is taken across the front of chest from underarm to underarm and is needed especially for strapless gowns.

Bust - The bust measurement is taken across the fullest part of your bust.

Under bust – Taken directly under the bust.

Waist - The waist measurement is taken at the smallest part of your torso.

High Hip – The high hip is taken 10cm down from the waist, keeping the tape measure parallel to the floor.

Low Hip – The high hip is taken 20cm down from the waist, keeping the tape measure parallel to the floor.

Bicep – Taken around the bicep – this is only needed for gowns with a sleeve like Cara, Amelie or the Cecile Blouse.

Waist to Floor Length - All of our gowns measure 117cm from the ‘true’ waist to floor at the CF. Please ensure to take this measurement from the front and ask the bride what height heel she intends on wearing to determine if she needs to add extra length.

Shoulder to waist - Taken from where the bra strap would sit in the middle of your neck and shoulder and down to your waist.

Adding Extra Length – See the individual styles below for more information on adding hem length. 

Strap length - please take the take the length of the strap over the shoulder as well as measuring the distance from the side seam to where the bride would like the strap to be fixed on both the front and back. It is also important to know the size sample the bride tried on for production reference.

 

SPLIT SIZING 

We offer split sizing with all of our gowns, which comes with a fee. This service allows the bride to order a split size gown (bust/waist/hips) in the nearest size for each area. 

For example, if a bride was measuring a 90cm bust, 70cm waist and 103cm hip; referring to the sizing chart, she could order a bust size 10, Waist size 10 and Hips size 12. 

We do use other measurements to determine these sizes. For example, to determine the bust size, we will take the bust and under bust into account and for strapless gowns, we will also include the over bust measurement. A bride could be a 6 bust but 8 under bust, as they may have a small cup size and wide rib cage, so we would need to go with an 8 to account for her rib cage.

We have made a dress to a difference of 2 full sizes in the past, for example a 8 bust, 12 waist – however prefer not to jump more than a 1.5 size difference. We think in that range it is better to order the dress in a larger size and have it taken in where needed in alterations. Photos are always recommended but for people with proportions like this they are extra helpful.  

Please note: silk fabrics are NOT stretch fabrics. They have a little bit of give as they have a mechanical stretch, but they are designed to skim the body not hug tightly. If they are too tight on the body, there will be too much pressure on the seams, and they could split. 

With our demi-couture line, Prea James Studio, split sizing is included in the price of the gown, there is no extra charge.

With each individual bride having an individual body shape and size, as well as the fabric being more delicate and the construction of the gowns more specialized, we want to encourage split sizing if needed, as this will help to maintain the integrity of the design and proportions.

 

BESPOKE SIZING/FIT CHANGES 

As all the gowns are made in house by our skilled team and made to order - small changes can be made. For general pattern alterations, such a raising a neckline 1cm higher than the sample or shortening the waist by 2cm - a standard pattern alteration charge would apply. 

 

TRAIN LENGTH 

Extra train length can be added in 20cm increments on to most of our styles for a fee. However, with Bias cut styles, usually an additional 20cm is the longest we can add due to the width of the fabric, therefore, we would need to add some panels for extra length. As most of our gowns have quite a bit of flare in the skirt, we can only add up to 20cm on these styles.

Some styles train length can be added without panel lines, these include most of our gowns and skirts cut on the straight grain. We have included this in the notes for these styles under SIZES/FIT/CHANGES. 

With our Studio collections, there are individual notes on each style regarding train lengths and whether any length or train can be added. Please see the detailed notes on each style.

 

BIAS CUT GARMENTS

Bias cut fabric really does look so incredible, the fall on a bias-cut skirt is stunning and hard to beat. However, it is important to understand the nature
of bias-cut fabric to be able to educate brides on whether it is right for their body shape. Sadly, bias-cut doesn’t work on every shape, especially when it is a gown and not a separate. It really depends on where the bride has curves and seeing how the sample fits. If the bride is not feeling comfortable, perhaps suggest a style that is not cut on the bias. 

The way that bias-cut works is that the pattern is cut on the diagonal of the fabric. Yarns are woven in horizontal and vertical directions creating the straight grain (along the fabric roll). Patterns are normally laid along the straight grain, parallel to the fabric edge whereas bias-cut is diagonal. Along the diagonal of the fabric the weave has more stretch and that causes the fabric to fall and drape beautifully and mimic the curve of the body.

Different fabrics react differently when cut on the bias, depending on the fibre and weave. Silk tends to drop more, causing it to elongate while shrinking in when it is cut on the bias. Whereas some triacetate/polyester blends or viscose we use have a tighter weave and hold the shape a little better. As the fabric stretches out, it also shrinks up.

Generally, on bias cut fabrics it is better not to have a zipper opening due to the nature of bias cut. It is used in a slinky silk slip dress that doesn’t have a waist seam and can hang loose on the body. As our gowns nearly all have waist seams, we need an opening of some sort, and feel buttons over an area like the hip would show gaps which brides would not be comfortable with.

As the zipper needs to work with the brides’ curve and it is nearly impossible for it to look the same on different body shapes when it reacts to the curve on the body.  In this case, it is normally better to pin the zipper on the dress or skirt while it is on the body. Brides should allow enough budget to have the zipper re-sewn in alterations, this is the only way to have it sit perfectly. 

We also always suggest having the hip on the gown being sized up, as this allows the fabric to fall gently over the hip. If it is too small, it can often still appear
to fit the bride as it stretches on the bias. However, when the hip is too small, it will cause ripples over the hip and zipper areas.

Some brides don’t mind the zipper being a little rippley, while others get quite upset by this. So, it needs to be worked out in a case-by-case basis. If the bride has a very small waist and wide hips or the opposite and quite wide and flat with a flat backside, it can cause the zipper to buckle more. 

For very curvy brides (where there is big jump in size between the waist and hip) or the sample is near to their size but already showing ripples, it is best to either suggest a gown or skirt cut on the straight grain, or make sure they allow enough budget to have the zipper and waist re-sewn in alterations to fit to the body.

The bias cut zipper adjustment is a very easy fix for a skilled alterations specialist so please communicate this to the bride.